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got the freelance job of designing and drafting all the gold bullion
embroidery patterns for the new movie about the Alamo through a
referral by the Motion Picture Costume Company to the costume designer
Daniel Orlandi. I was already known there for my work drafting embroidery
patterns for a previous movie, "One Man's Hero" with Tom
Berringer.
met
with Daniel very early in the pre-production period to discuss how
to create the luxurious gold encrusted uniforms for Santa Anna and
his general staff. His assistant designer had already assembled
for me a complete set of their impressive research photos including
many showing Santa Anna's personal artifacts. The look of Mexican
military uniforms at this time was heavily influenced by French
Napoleonic uniforms and in fact much of their gear and dress was
old French surplus. At a glance, Mexican generals uniforms are similar
to French generals but they had their own distinctive embroidery
motifs reflecting native desert flora such as palm fronds.
had
two criteria to fill regarding designing patterns for movie costumes:
First, the embroidery had to identify, to the audience, the hierarchy
of Santa Anna's team. His embroidery had to be bolder, thicker and
wider than his subordinates whose embroidery was thinner by comparison.
This follows the French tradition of distinguishing between Marshals
and Generals of Brigade. Secondly, since there was no casting at
this early stage in the game we had to prepare to get a leading
actor who could be ANY size. Our solution was to draft two sizes
of each pattern piece: 40-42 and 44-46. That way, we would be prepared
to fit any actor between size 40 and 46.
fter
I completed my part of the job, the next step was to send our patterns
and fabric to Pakistan for embroidery. The region of Sailkot is
world famous for hand-work companies that specialize in bullion
military style embroidery. We had the work done there and sent back
as finished panels which were made into collars, cuffs, lapels,
etc. by C & J Tailoring in North Hollywood, CA (Mr. O) who also
made the rest of the uniforms.
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